We’ve fallen into Dark Times here in Denmark. It’s dark now at around 4 pm, and in midday the sun is so low in the gray sky there’s not much light seeping through the windows anyway. I was warned about the Dark Times. The Danish cure for it is to light candles, throw on another scarf and drink hot mulled wine from one of those little wooden huts just now popping up in all the town squares. And eat good things. Smorrebrød may be a year-round sandwich, but along with the Dark Times comes the season of Jul, or Yule, which has a cuisine tradition all its own. And the little wooden huts have popped up downstairs all along Nyhavn Canal, gently pushing back the darkness.